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The slope of the 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière, with a 40% gradient, is almost terrifying on the way down. The wine itself is a masterpiece of impeccable purity on the nose. Even if it is restrained because of its young age, you can still discern the depth, concentration and quality of the aromas. The palate is "built" on sharp acidity, lemony fruit expression and minerality but there is a meaty character here that comes to fill in the aggressive corners of the wine. Even a distinctive creamy texture that perfectly balances the lemony fruit. Yet it remains linear, straightforward, sharp, full of tremendous intensity and energy. There is no reason to rush to consume it.
Another Olivier Lamy "energy bomb" coming from such a steep vineyard where everything is done by hand. The stumps were planted in 1964 and it is essentially the slope of St-Aubin bordering Puligny-Montrachet and has a south-southwest exposure. The soils are on a limestone substrate and give tremendous levels of energy and concentration to the Chardonnay. The wine is fermented and matured in oak barrels for about a year and the fruit is so lemony that it is reminiscent of "bubbly" Riesling. Next to it, however, there is a perfectly integrated smoky element. The wine has a lot of volume but no "fat", which helps it to balance - on a tightrope - with the cool sensation of acidity on the palate. A sensational white Burgundy.
An awesome balance of freshness and oxidative character, a hint of honey aromas and richness reminiscent of the equally wonderful sparkling wines from the Chenin Blanc variety. Indigene does not want or resemble champagne in any way. The slow second fermentation in the bottle, which can last for over six months, contributes to the complexity of the wine,...
