02357
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Hatzidakis did not focus solely on Assyrtiko, but also took a keen interest in many of the island’s rarer varieties. With Mavrotragano, he began working in the late 1990s and, together with Paris Sigalas, was among the first to produce a 100% Mavrotragano wine. The variety still ranks among the most exotic of Santorini, covering just over 1% of the island’s vineyard area. The wine’s evolution over time is remarkable, with the volcano making its presence felt through mineral graphite-like aromas. The fruit retains its freshness and is framed by beautiful hints of earth, leather, and smoke, while the tannins—slightly rustic and old-fashioned in feel—are nonetheless perfectly rounded.
Such a nose defines the Old World; it recalls some great aged Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from Emidio Pepe, with a slightly aggressive initial impression that ultimately transforms into something soft. Like a wild hand that, over time, has learned to caress. Tremendous energy and a complex character, where primary and especially tertiary aromas such as mushroom, leaves, and leather “converse” with one another, creating a sense of harmony and depth. A style that takes you on a journey through the world’s great red wines and the way they evolve—almost in a magical manner that cannot help but captivate.
An awesome balance of freshness and oxidative character, a hint of honey aromas and richness reminiscent of the equally wonderful sparkling wines from the Chenin Blanc variety. Indigene does not want or resemble champagne in any way. The slow second fermentation in the bottle, which can last for over six months, contributes to the complexity of the wine,...
