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In such an extended appellation of origin as Saint-Joseph in the Northern Rhône, it is important to focus on the best villages and vineyards in the region, in particular those on the steep slopes above the river, such as Saint-Jean-de-Muzols. High above this village, Philippe Desbos, a third-generation vigneron, grows Syrah vines of great age, in some cases reaching 70 years old. Here the wines are made without "make-up" or modern gimmicks, just as they were in the past. His wines "mirror" old-fashioned, minimalist practices with an emphasis on sustainable viticulture and horse-drawn plowing. Everything is done by hand or foot (in the case of grape stomping) in a completely traditional way. The altitude of the vineyard ensures that Vieilles Vignes Rouge has this fantastic freshness that, combined with the outward-looking aromatic character and the subtle-concise style from the granitic soils, show what a wonderfully hidden secret Saint-Joseph is for Syrah lovers.
Philippe Desbos' approach is based on his respect for tradition, not because of a tendency but bades on the his belief that it makes better wines. Far from all viticultural and technological innovations, he produces his Saint-Joseph from the "fillet" of the great wine-growing zone, following techniques used by his ancestors. He plows the vineyard with the help of his horse, treads the grapes with his feet, presses them in a vertical wooden press that is about 150 years old, ripens them in old foudres for 16 months and bottles them unfiltered and without clarification using minimal sulphites. His Vieilles Vignes is wonderfully aromatic with violets, black cherries and peppery elements. On the palate it has elegance and gentleness without lacking tension and structure. Lovely, without excess, it's hard to imagine a more classic Syrah with all the elements of its fantastic granite terroir.
An awesome balance of freshness and oxidative character, a hint of honey aromas and richness reminiscent of the equally wonderful sparkling wines from the Chenin Blanc variety. Indigene does not want or resemble champagne in any way. The slow second fermentation in the bottle, which can last for over six months, contributes to the complexity of the wine,...
